by Peggy Koppmann
Over the years, we have adopted a late-season garden philosophy: “If it’s ugly in August, we just don’t grow it.” Plants that have lost their vigor, look shabby, reseed everywhere, or make you think, “I just can’t deadhead one more plant,” have gradually been edited out of our garden. Gardeners are entitled to be a little weary during the heat of August, so don’t feel guilty if you ditch a plant or two that are not performing. Besides, it just makes room to try something new.
Think Spring
Bulb catalogs are arriving, and it’s time to plan additions of spring-flowering bulbs to your garden. Many spring bloomers provide essential pollen and nectar for bees emerging from winter hibernation. Bumblebee queens, in particular, have only a short window to find food sources that will ensure their survival and the establishment of new colonies. Think beyond crocuses and daffodils, and consider Winter Aconite, ornamental alliums, or Chionodoxa. You can also add native plants such as Bloodroot and Virginia Bluebells. Plan for a mix of early-, mid-, and late-season blooms to provide a continuous source of food throughout the spring.
Here are some Extension resources to learn more about spring bulbs and other plant options.
https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/article-topic/perennials-selection/page/11
https://www.uaex.uada.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-week/glory-snow-2-21-13.aspx
https://www.fs.usda.gov/managing-land/wildflowers/pollinators/gardening
Always be sure to check the plants you are considering grow well in our plant hardiness zone. You will also find planting suggestions from sources online and in mainstream gardening publications.
Evil Weevils
Vine weevil larvae live underground and stealthily attack many herbaceous plants, especially young plants with tender roots. Known to most gardeners as grubs (although there are many other types of grubs), these pests are actually the larvae of the black vine weevil (Otiorhynchus sulcatus). They are easily identified by their creamy-white color and distinctive C-shape.
The larvae feed on roots, particularly those of container-grown and potted plants, and can cause wilting, decline, and even plant death. Adult beetles feed on rhododendrons, hydrangeas, bergenias, and primulas, leaving characteristic notches along leaf margins, but they rarely kill the plant. Birds, frogs, and toads prey on both the larvae and adult beetles.
Check container-grown plants regularly for signs of damage and repot if necessary, removing all larvae before replacing the old potting mix with fresh soil.
Cast a Critical Eye
August is a good time to take a close look at your garden. Are there empty spaces? What needs to be removed or divided? Does it need more color? Which crops performed well? (Did you write down the variety names?) Are some areas overgrown? Are there too many annuals and not enough perennials? What thrived, and what failed to meet your expectations? Where might a tree or special shrub be needed?
This is not just an academic exercise; it’s an essential part of the evolution of your garden and, for that matter, your evolution as a gardener. Keep notes throughout the growing season or use a garden journal. (You know you’re going to forget if you don’t write it down.) Take photos, lots of them, and label them with the location and the garden issue or success they illustrate. Do it now. You’ll thank me next spring.
The Well-Groomed Garden
As the season progresses, it’s tempting to let things go a bit. Even if you are going for a casual look or a “chaos garden”, there are plenty of reasons to keep up with garden grooming chores. Removing plant debris such as dead and dying plants or leaves reduces the risk of fungal disease and insects.
Controlling weeds reduces competition for water, nutrients and light. It also reduces the chances they will seed and live forever! If a plant or shrub dies and you can’t determine the cause of death, dispose of it; don’t compost it and risk spreading pathogens. Many plants benefit from removing spent blossoms, thus directing the plant energy into producing new growth rather than seed.
Overcrowded plants also benefit from thinning to increase air circulation and reduce the chance of fungal diseases such as powdery mildew. The well-groomed garden is a healthier place for all.
No Smoking Near the Solanaceae
Tomatoes are a part of the Solanaceae family along with potatoes, eggplant and peppers and the less common ground cherries and tomatillos. As such, they are susceptible to the Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV). TMV was the first plant virus ever identified and although it strikes tobacco crops, it can also infect over 350 different plant species. It stunts leaves, slowing photosynthesis, but generally doesn’t kill the plant. Leaves become mottled or discolored with yellow, pale green or darker green coloration on the leaf surface. It weakens plants, making them more susceptible to pests and diseases and affecting your harvest. There is no cure for TMV and it can easily spread to other plants.
So, don’t use tobacco products near your garden and do your homework to learn more about diseases that affect tomatoes. Here are some links to get started:
https://ccenassau.org/resources/tomatoes-growing
And then…
Prune out old raspberry canes; water deeply in the morning; divide Japanese and Siberian iris; give roses a final feeding; keep weeding; finish pruning summer blooming shrubs; pick up and destroy all fallen fruit; clean off spider mites with a stream of water; watch for viburnum beetles; harvest regularly and donate some of your harvest to a local foodbank. Generosity is the hallmark of gardeners everywhere.
Peggy Koppmann is a Cornell Cooperative Extension Master Gardener Volunteer and a longtime contributor to CCE Erie’s newsletter, Gardening Matters (and to this website).
