What you probably don’t know about potting an amaryllis, but wish you did
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You can have amaryllis blooms in your house during the winter, and you can see them in an exhibit now at the Buffalo and Erie County Botanical Gardens. Photo by Connie Oswald Stofkoby Connie Oswald Stofko
I have a bunch of amaryllis bulbs in two large pots, and I would like to separate them and move some into another pot. I asked David Clark, nationally and internationally known gardening educator, for some tips.
His first suggestion: Don’t do it.
“Amaryllis likes to be root-bound,” Clark said. He told me that if I separate the bulbs, they may not flower this year.
While I hear his warning, those bulbs have been crammed into those pots for years, and new bulbs have formed. I really think I would like to move some of the new bulbs.
I’m glad I asked Clark how to do it because he gave me some great advice.
Timing is important
If you want to divide or repot your amaryllis bulbs, do it at the beginning of the growth cycle.
If you just got an amaryllis plant that bloomed over the holidays or is blooming now, it’s not at the right stage for repotting. Wait until next year.
Follow these steps to get your plant ready for reblooming inside next winter.
Continue to grow the plant as a houseplant in the best light you have, Clark said, and give it some balanced plant fertilizer. When the flower has finished blooming, you can cut off the stem so the plant doesn’t look ugly.
However, don’t cut off the leaves! That’s very important. The plant needs the leaves to store up energy over the summer.
In the spring, when the danger of frost has passed and night temperatures are at 55 degrees Fahrenheit, put the plant outside. You’re going to keep it outside all summer.
Here are a couple tips to help you get your plant through the summer.
I have several bulbs in this one large pot. In the summer, I don’t have to water this large pot as often as I would have to water several small pots. Photo by Connie Oswald Stofko
First, you can put many bulbs in one big pot. That has worked well for me. A big pot will retain water better than a smaller pot, so you won’t have to water it as often when it’s hot and dry outside during the summer.
However, in the winter, those pots take up a lot of room in my house. It would be nice to have just one amaryllis in its own pot that could be displayed on a tabletop without having to clear everything else away. And if you’re starting with just one amaryllis, you don’t want to transplant it into a large pot– Remember, they like to be root-bound. But during the summer, a small pot outside in hot, dry weather needs to be watered every single day, maybe twice a day. Are you really going to do that?
Clark suggests taking the plant, pot and all, and setting it into the ground. It will look like another plant in your garden.
That’s brilliant! The plant will lose moisture a little more slowly if the pot is surrounded by moist soil than if the pot is exposed to drying breezes. Still, make sure you give it lots of water, and fertilize it during the summer. The plant is storing up energy and forming the flower spike inside the bulb.
Bonus tip: Before you put the pot into the ground, slip a nylon stocking over the pot to keep worms out of the drainage hole– The worms will eat organic matter and the potting medium, Clark said.
Keep your amaryllis plant outside all summer, and when the nights get down to about 50 degrees Fahrenheit, bring the plant inside, Clark said.
At that point, you want the plant to go dormant. Leave the bulb in the pot. Put the pot in a cool place, such as a basement. Tropical plants go dormant in temperatures that are about 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Don’t water the plants and don’t fertilize them. The leaves will die, and that’s okay.
Around the end of January or beginning of February, you’ll start to see signs of life. A green thing will emerge from the neck of the bulb.
When you see that, you can divide your bulbs.
How to divide or repot your amaryllis bulbs
If you followed all those steps last year, your plant should be at the beginning of the growth cycle or near the beginning of the growth cycle. You’ll have brown, crisp, dry leaves with something green poking out of the neck of the bulb. This is the time when you can divide your bulbs.
One of the bulbs in this pot is showing some green. Photo by Connie Oswald Stofko
(If you don’t have that green thing poking out of the neck of the bulb yet, just wait a little longer. Mine weren’t doing anything yesterday, and today I have one sprout.)
Choose a new pot that will give your bulb one-half inch or one inch on each side of the bulb– The pot shouldn’t be roomier than that, Clark said.
Terra cotta pots work best because amaryllis plants like dryish conditions, he said, and the terra cotta will let the root structure breathe. They like deeper, narrower pots.
You can remove any dried roots from the bulb. You can also trim the roots if needed so they fit into the new pots.
Put the bulb in a bowl of water so just the root plate– the bottom of the bulb where the roots emerge– is in the water. Let it soak for 12 hours.
The message the plant is getting is that this is the rainy season in its native land, Clark explained, and it should start to grow.
Plant your bulb into the new pot. You can use a soilless potting medium or potting soil; a soilless medium will dry out faster.
Plant the bulb so about two-thirds is covered with dirt; don’t pant the bulb all the way up to the neck.
Water until the water comes out of the drainage hole.
Don’t water the pot again until the soil is dry 1 ½ inches down, Clark said. You can test the soil by inserting a chopstick or pencil. Moisture will turn the chopstick a darker color, he said. Of course, you can also use your finger.
When the soil is dry 1 ½ inches down, add one-quarter cup of water around the edge of the bulb.
“More water at the beginning of the cycle will produce more leaves,” Clark said, “but by withholding moisture, you’re forcing the flower stalk to grow taller than the leaves.”
Give your plant good light.
You can put multiple bulbs into one pot as long as they are nestled and don’t have too much extra room. For a nicer look, plant three bulbs in one pot rather than two, Clark noted.
Enjoy the flowers as long as they last. Again, you can cut off the withered flower, but don’t cut off the leaves.
See amaryllis flowers at the Botanical Gardens
The Amaryllis exhibit is under way now from 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. daily through Sunday, Feb. 28 at the Buffalo and Erie County Botanical Gardens, 2655 South Park Ave., Buffalo.
Entrance to the exhibit is included with regular admission to the Botanical Gardens: $9 for adults, $8 for seniors (ages 55 and older) and students (ages 13 and older with ID), $5 for children ages 3-12 and free for Botanical Gardens members and children 2 and under.
Learn more from David Clark
Clark teaches four courses of entertaining and informative horticulture classes at the Buffalo and Erie County Botanical Gardens. You can sign up for an entire course or just take a single class. You don’t have to take the classes in any particular order. Seating is limited. Find out more here.
Clark can also speak to your group. Get more details.
62 Comments on “What you probably don’t know about potting an amaryllis, but wish you did”
David, wow! Thank you for all of that detailed information!
Hello HELP,
I was gifted a waxed Amaryllis bulb in January, and mine is blooming as I am writing this. I am finding that the flower stalk is much shorter than the bulbs I have growing in soil, perhaps because of lesser available moisture.
From my research and reading, many of the waxed Amaryllis do exhibit a mold issue on the bulb’s surface, once the wax is removed (I have not peeled off the wax on my bulb yet)…
Perhaps when the wax is first removed, a dusting or spray of garden sulfur (an organic fungicide) would be efficacious to control/stop the fungal issue…Bordeaux mix (a copper-based fungicide) is usually my “go to” fungal control on Amaryllis.
Make sure the bulb surface is dry before we continue….
I think it is ok that you soaked the basal root cap in water, for maybe 2 hours to allow the bulb to absorb needed moisture.
I would not remove any growth (leaves/bulbs) that may have begun to grow, as this is how Amaryllis regenerate from year to year.
The fungal issue on the soil surface normally is not deleterious to plants, although it may slight compete for available nutrients -fungus are present in all soils, especially those that have a high amount of organic matter, and or bark fines.. and assist in the decomposition of said organic matter. (as in what happens in a compost pile).
The fungus could have been formed during a high moisture-long duration situation in the soil. Scooping out is ok, hoping that you took precautions to wear a dust mask and protective gloves. However the microscopic mycelium by which fungi spread are still present in the soil.
My Amaryllis reside in taller than wider terracotta pots, buried up “to their shoulders” with soil, and then I add sprinkle of worm castings, finally topping off with an inch or so of gravel. The gravel helps to control moisture levels in the soil, as does the terracotta pot. It also shades the soil surface to control fungus gnats and the growth of algae.
Watering: I keep mine on the dry side, even when they are spiking, adding only a 1/2 cup of water maybe weekly or as needed.
After leaves expand and the flower stalk has died back, I water about a cup at a time, and maybe the second watering, a 1/2 strength water soluble fertilizer (I like the “Max-Sea” product line a lot).
Do keep the bulb on the dry side as that will force it to put out new roots to search for moisture.
Continue growing the bulbs indoors in as much light as you can provide, and plan on getting them out in the garden once temperatures have stabilized.
I am thinking it may take a couple of years for the bulb to fully recharge itself, as the forcing procedure taxes the energy of the bulb.
I hope you find my comments helpful in your situation, I am looking forward to continuing the growth of my waxed Amaryllis also!
Regards,
David R. Clark, CNLP
Susan McKee,
You say you’re moving 50 yr. old bulbs. Are they Amaryllis? If so, it’s great that you’ve kept them thriving! Best of luck with moving your bulbs…
🐝🌺🐞
Susan, I’m glad this article helped you. If you need specific advice for your area, contact the Texas extension service in your area.
I have to move a bunch of 50-year old bulbs ( they have been moved around before) and intended to give some away in pots. We live in Houston so they overwinter in the ground. The advice above is very helpful. They have already started sprouting leaves, so I guess we will be very careful.
I bought a bunch of Touch of Wax Amaryllis bulbs on clearance and decided to cut the wax off with hopes it would allow the bulb to grow longer (years). The wax came off nicely but the bottoms of the bulbs were going mouldy and brown so without thinking I cut off the mould, plunked them in some pots and gave them some water thinking they would be fine. I feel I’ve made more than a few mistakes now because the end-tips of the low-growing buds and leaves are starting to turn brown, a minuscule amount, but still showing signs of distress. They aren’t growing as fast as my other 2 elder Amaryllis’. Should I have maybe soaked the bulb bottoms after cutting the mould off of them? Can I still do that? It has been about a week. Do I cut off the bulbs that had already started to grow before I cut the wax and mould off? Also, The tops of the pots had saprophytic fungus which I scooped out. I haven’t watered them since the first initial watering when planted so the top 1.5ish inches of soil is dry. I am looking for help on what to do with these beauties to help them live full, happy lives. Having them bloom isn’t as meaningful to me as having them healthy. 🙂 Thanking you for all suggestions.
Sarah B.,
Those shoots you see by the roots of the bulb are new baby bulbs that are beginning to form. Just plant your Amaryllis bulb as usual when you begin to see leaf or bud growth. Eventually over time those small shoots will become small bulbs and can be removed and planted on there own. Best of luck with your new flowering bulb!
Brett
Hi there,
I received an ‘apple blossom’ amaryllis as a gift recently. I’m unsure how to plant the bulb as there are new ‘shoots/sprouts’ coming out of the roots, as opposed to on the opposite side that would normally be above soil when planted– seems odd to me. Should I attempt planting root-side down anyways?
Hello Marcelle!
I ran across an interesting article that recommends we keep our amaryllis growing without the usual dry/cool/rest period we have been recommended to do!
It sounds like your bulbs are responding normally to your growing procedure.
The article also recommends to start the bulbs in a 6″ pot, then moving up to an 8″ pot through to 12″ container!
Your “problem” of the massive root system may be exactly what they require! I am contemplating this similar procedure on one of my bulbs.
I know that Connie Stofko also grows her “Appleblossom” bulbs in very large pots with great success!
Interesting to read all the comments on this article!
Regards,
David Clark, CNLP
Hello Helen!
There are a few reasons why your bulb may only be producing leaves. Depending on where your bulb was grown – Amsterdam or South Africa – it may be normal for leaves to appear first, most usually with the African bulbs. When watering the bulb, I flood the pot with water upon first planting and then no water until there is good growth emerging from the neck of the bulb. Thereafter, I only give 1/2 cup of water per bulb in a 6″ pot through the bloom sequence, keeping it on the dry side.
Once blooming is finished and leaves have expanded, only then do I supply more water and fertilizer to the pot until it drains from the bottom of the pot.
It could be that your bulb was exposed to either too high, or too low temperatures during shipping and storage at the retail outlet- both conditions will compromise flower stalk development.
It could also be that the bulb is young and did not achieve the necessary size to produce flowers.
It could also be that the bulb became severely dehydrated at the retail level…
As Brett recommended, continue to grow the bulb and once settled weather arrives in late spring, move the plant outdoors in full sun and grow it for the summer season. You could try adding an inch or so of compost or worm castings to the soil surface to increase the nutrition of the potting mix.
Best wishes for continued success!
Regards,
David Clark, CNLP
Don’t give up on your Amaryllis. Keep it and keep tending it. It will continue to grow and will produce flower stalks for you when it becomes healthier and more settled. I’ve spoken to some individuals who have bulbs that are approaching 30 yrs. old. They become more astounding with age and size. Also, read back thru the comments here, there’s much info. to be gleaned. Good luck and God bless!
I bought an amaryllis bulb that only produced leaves, no flowers. What should I do with it?
Ruth, I would be careful of the extreme heat and sun in your Utah yard. And your bulbs won’t bloom properly if given too much water and may rot. You could grow your Amaryllis bulbs indoor. They like a bright window. A little sun is ok but not during blooming so your blooms will last longer. Be sure to turn your pot frequently so their fast growth doesn’t lean toward the light! Also, the suggestion to check with your local extension service for more info. can be helpful. Good luck growing!
Ruth, you should contact the extension service in your state. They will be able to give you advice for your weather conditions. I hope that helps!
I recently received a 3 pack of planted, large bulb red amyrillis which are starting to bloom now. I would like to put them all together in one large pot at some point. Here in very southern Ut it gets very hot (over105-110). And there is very little shade in my west facing yard. I could place the bulb pot in another big planter with irrigation. Is this too hot, too much water. Would really like to keep these bulbs going. Thank yiu.
Sounds cool! My current oldest bulb is probably 5-6 yrs. now. Are you aware of the little “Fairy” or “Rain Lilies”? They’re mini-bulb ‘cousins’ of Amaryllis that have a single flower at a time, usually pink but are available in white and other colors. I have a couple dozen. I plant 6-12 in a clay pot together depending on the size of the pot. Happy gardening! ☺️🌱
My largest (and oldest – 30 yrs plus) ) is bright red, and it’s offshoots are catching up size-wise. Then a (about 8-10 yrs old) white one with a double type flower which is becoming very large but seems a different bulb shape – more tight and round. It stayed the same size and perhaps even diminished its first two years before it started getting bigger. I also have a previously failing peach one I adopted from a neighbor which seems to be recovering. It had only one floppy leaf at first, but now has six. It may help that I don’t cut off all their leaves and “rest” them. Not sure. I leave their schedule to them. I have noticed their longest leaves grow during summer. Almost 4 feet long for the red one. Most turn yellow and limp sometime before blooming and I cut them off as they do. They spend the winter indoors in a window in clay pots. By the time I put them in the vegetable bed in summer, any of their remaining oldest leaves are floppy and a little ragged and they have shorter new ones.
Marcelle,
Are your Amaryllis all the standard red or do you have other colors?
I have a couple that have double red blooms and a lovely scent! Then I have several standard red and a beautiful red/white combo. There are so many other colors/designs available now it’s addictive! Wish I could have one of every kind, LoL! Best wishes with your bulbs!
Wow! You get that many flower stalks?!? Sounds like they’re very healthy!!
I think if you trim the roots when potting them the worst that might happen is you may lose a bloom period while the bulbs become resettled. I would take the risk if they were mine.
Thank you. I have never rested them, mostly from inability to keep on a schedule with them and am afraid of forgetting them too long. They usually bloom sometime between Jan and Feb, depending I guess whenever I get them out of the vegetable bed and potted. I have only ever cut off the yellow or damaged leaves as they happen. They will send up 4-5 bloom stalks which I cut off either as a cut flower or when they are finished. Usually they will send up a couple more bloom stalks a month or two after the first blooming. My problem is that the roots have become so massive they require very large pots
Thank you. I have never rested them, mostly from inability to keep on a schedule with them and am afraid of forgetting them too long. They usually bloom sometime between Jan and Feb, depending I guess whenever I get them out of the vegetable bed and potted. I have only ever cut off the yellow or damaged leaves as they happen. They will send up 4-5 bloom stalks which I cut off either as a cut flower or when they are finished. Usually they will send up a couple more bloom stalks a month or two after the first blooming.
Marcelle, I’m not 100% sure as I live in Maine which is colder and I rest my Amaryllis bulbs during the Winter. But, I believe you can still trim the roots even though they’re not dried out. Maybe you could try one and see how it does…?
I’m sorry I don’t have a scientific answer but hope my opinion is helpful in some way. Wishing you good luck with your bulbs!
Thank you, I dont have a timing vs weather question as I let them bloom whenever they will. I am wondering about their massive root systems when I take them out of the outdoor vegetable beds to put them in pots for the winter. The roots are not dried out and are very healthy. Can I still trim the roots?
Hi Marcelle, your weather in Ohio may be different than ours here in Western New York. Check with your extension service there to see what you should do. I hope that helps.
I have had an amaryllis for 30 years. It is the size of a large cantaloupe with enormous roots. I have removed huge offsets a few times that carry on alone. I live in Ohio and plant them in the vegetable bed over the summer. But I have a repotting question. Their root systems are massive and require huge pots. The roots are not dried out. Should I trim them? I have never rested these bulbs, i only trim leaves off as they die or break. When I repot them, i put them in a window as house plants. They bloom around January to February. I am worried about stuffing these massive root systems in their pots.
Joyce, contact the extension service in your area for local advice. I hope that helps.
How many bulbs should I plant in an 8″ pot? Also, what time of year do I divide them in So. Florida?
Thank you.
Joy Stallings
Thank you for the tips. I have already had quite bulbs, so I’ll try to do what you say: I’ll make them rest. It’s a satisfaction to be able to makr them bloom by ourself.
Annie, if you can give the bulbs six weeks or more of rest in a dry area that remains 50-55° F. they should happily grow and bloom again for you.
If the dormancy period is impossible for you, you can also purchase an Amaryllis bulb and grow it and enjoy the blooms. Then just discard the bulb and purchase a new bulb next time.
I live in a tropical country so I think it’s difficult to do dormant. I wish I could, cz the flower is so beautiful
Thank you both for your help Connie and Brett!
Thanks, Brett. I have used those fertilizer sticks later in the growing cycle.
When first starting your bulbs after their rest it’s helpful to not overwater or fertilize right away. Too much water or a dose of fertilizer early on in growth can encourage alot of leaf growth but discourage flowering. I choose to wait until after flowering before adding any fertilizer. I’m not saying my way is the only way but it’s what I have the best luck with.
Happy growing! ?
Judy, I had bulbs in the same pot for years. Several new bulbs had formed, and I decided I wanted to move some of the bulbs to a second pot. If you don’t have a compelling reason to move the new bulb, just leave it. The bulbs like to be root-bound. I don’t add new soil, but I do use fertilizer.
Judy,
If the new baby bulbs has any roots, I’d separate it from the mother bulb and continue growing it separately. If no roots, then the baby bulb hasn’t developed enough yet to be separated.
As far as fresh soil every year after dormancy, I would say while not necessary it is recommended! The fresh soil gives the rested bulb all it needs to grow and bloom it’s best.
I hope this has been helpful. Good luck with your Amaryllis. They are truly one of God’s most beautiful creations.
Thank you all for sharing your experiences with growing amaryllis. I have two questions.
This year I have an offset on a large bulb. Should I cut it off to allow the large bulb to grow or should I leave it be?
Is it necessary to put the bulbs in fresh soil every year after their dormancy period?
Brett, thanks for those tips!
Jewell Harrelson,
I have had many Amaryllis over the years but over the last 5 or so years I’ve been faithfully resting the same bulbs by 1) pulling them at the end of the growth cycle, 2) trimming the leaves and excess roots and 3) storing them in cardboard boxes full of shredded paper (sawdust should also work) in a cool, dry location until new green growth is visible. I then repot the bulbs for the new growth period.
The ideal storage temp. for the resting Amaryllis bulbs is 50°-55°. I don’t have a garage or cellar so I store mine in the back of my pantry on the cool floor. It’s the best I can do and seems to work okay. Be sure that your bulbs don’t get exposed to cold temps below 45° during their rest or you’ll get no blooms or lose the bulb altogether.
I recommend getting them outside for the summer after blooming and according to your individual area’s temps (55° and up). They love the sunshine and fresh air and grow much stronger and faster than indoors. I had bulbs this Summer with as many as 9 thick leaves.
I have a huge amaryllis that had 8 huge bulbs which divided themselves. When I went to cut the dead leaves, I place the bulbs in the garage to dry out. They are very old from my mother in law. I would hate to lose them. Please tell me what to do.
Maybe when to replant them?
Brett, gardening is so much fun! Thanks again for sharing.
Connie,
You and all your readers are welcome! I love plants and flowers and it makes a good hobby since I am disabled. It’s so much fun to explore websites and catalogs for new and/or unusual varieties to nurture and show off.
Happy gardening!! ?
Brett, thanks so much for those great tips!
***I forgot to mention that the ideal storage temp. for the resting Amaryllis bulbs is 50°-55°. I don’t have a garage or cellar so I store mine in the back of my pantry on the cool floor. It’s the best I can do and seems to work okay. Be sure that your bulbs don’t get exposed to cold temps below 45° during their rest or you’ll get no blooms or lose the bulb altogether.
Happy gardening! ?
I have had many Amaryllis over the years but over the last 5 or so years I’ve been faithfully resting the same bulbs by 1) pulling them at the end of the growth cycle, 2) trimming the leaves and excess roots and 3) storing them in cardboard boxes full of shredded paper (sawdust should also work) in a cool, dry location until new green growth is visible. I then repot the bulbs for the new growth period.
I recommend getting them outside for the summer after blooming and according to your individual area’s temps. (55° and up) They love the sunshine and fresh air and grow much stronger and faster than indoors. I had bulbs this Summer with as many as 9 thick leaves. Four of my initial five bulbs have developed new baby bulbs the size of ping pong balls and another parent bulb has a small bud on it’s side that will probably produce another new bulb in the next year or two. These small bulbs will require several years of growth after being separated from the mother bulbs before they will produce a flower stalk with 1-3 flowers. And, in a few more years they’ll produce the familiar large stalks with 3-4 flowers. I’m still waiting for my first bulb that produces two flower stalks. Maybe next spring as a couple of my bulbs are as large as my fist now!
I absolutely love and highly recommend growing Amaryllis! Once you learn they’re cyclic needs, it’s easy to produce jaw-dropping blooms. Your friends and neighbors will be amazed!
Hello Lorraine!
Thank you for your kind words- I do hope you purchase an amaryllis plant. They are so very beautiful and are available in a wide array of color choices and flower forms.
Kind regards,
David Clark
Thank you for educating us. I do not have this flower bulb BUT I intend
to purchase.
WONDERFUL, informative information, Mr Dave Clark!
Linda, I think I would advise you to also contact Master Gardeners. Usually amaryllis are easy to care for. If the Master Gardeners say this is some kind of a trend, please let me know!
My 3 year old amaryllis bulbs bloomed this year as always but a few days after the bloom is completely open the flower breaks off the stem. This has happened in all three plants which are planted in the same container. Any suggestions?
Patricia, I think this is a good question to ask the Master Gardeners in your county. They will be able to give you good information. You could email them photos of what you are seeing on your plants. I hope that helps.
I have a question? The Amaryllis bulbs that I have purchased on line (this year & last year) all come with the RED VIRUS …when I asked why this was happening, the nursery said there was nothing to worry about. Is that a true statement? Everything that I have read, said to get rid of any bulbs with RED VIRUS.
Great!
Thanks. I did more internet searches and I’ll be fine. I can leave them for awhile in the basement and then pot them later in the year.
Rollin, I’m not sure how to advise you since you live in Tennessee. I would suggest you contact the University of Tennessee Extension program. I hope that helps. Good luck!
I live in Memphis. I’ve had my amaryllis outside in pots all summer. . In the past, I have left the bulbs in the pots, put them in the basement, didn’t water them all winter and then put them out again in the spring, and I’ve always had great results.
Today I did what I recently read in an article….I’m hoping I did not make a mistake. The flowers have been outside all spring and summer, and it’s now Dec. 3, 2017. (no frost yet). The pots had dried out, so I pulled the bulbs out of their root-bound pots, removed the soil, then cut the roots off about 3/4 inches from the bulb. I’ve got them drying out a little before I store them. The article said to put the bulbs in the crisper of the fridge for at least 6 weeks.
What should I do now? Should I leave the bulbs in the fridge until spring and then replant them, or plant them in dry soil in a pot and leave them in a dark basement? Thanks for you help! I have about 12 amaryllis that I’ve grown from two.
David, I’ve had several of mine for five years or more. It’s nice to think they could be family heirlooms! Thanks again for your great advice.
Hi Connie! Thank you for the interview and for this very nice article. I hope the tips enable folks to grow their amaryllis year after year. In their native lands, these bulbs can live up to 50 years!
Happy gardening!
Linda, I hope your amaryllis blooms, too. It’s like a little bit of sunshine during the winter.
People just throw out their amaryllis after it blooms? Say it isn’t so!
Many good points and suggestions. They are a nice plant and so many just dispose of them after bloom.
Thank you for the information. This winter there has been so little sunlight. I hope my amaryllis blooms.
David, wow! Thank you for all of that detailed information!
Hello HELP,
I was gifted a waxed Amaryllis bulb in January, and mine is blooming as I am writing this. I am finding that the flower stalk is much shorter than the bulbs I have growing in soil, perhaps because of lesser available moisture.
From my research and reading, many of the waxed Amaryllis do exhibit a mold issue on the bulb’s surface, once the wax is removed (I have not peeled off the wax on my bulb yet)…
Perhaps when the wax is first removed, a dusting or spray of garden sulfur (an organic fungicide) would be efficacious to control/stop the fungal issue…Bordeaux mix (a copper-based fungicide) is usually my “go to” fungal control on Amaryllis.
Make sure the bulb surface is dry before we continue….
I think it is ok that you soaked the basal root cap in water, for maybe 2 hours to allow the bulb to absorb needed moisture.
I would not remove any growth (leaves/bulbs) that may have begun to grow, as this is how Amaryllis regenerate from year to year.
The fungal issue on the soil surface normally is not deleterious to plants, although it may slight compete for available nutrients -fungus are present in all soils, especially those that have a high amount of organic matter, and or bark fines.. and assist in the decomposition of said organic matter. (as in what happens in a compost pile).
The fungus could have been formed during a high moisture-long duration situation in the soil. Scooping out is ok, hoping that you took precautions to wear a dust mask and protective gloves. However the microscopic mycelium by which fungi spread are still present in the soil.
My Amaryllis reside in taller than wider terracotta pots, buried up “to their shoulders” with soil, and then I add sprinkle of worm castings, finally topping off with an inch or so of gravel. The gravel helps to control moisture levels in the soil, as does the terracotta pot. It also shades the soil surface to control fungus gnats and the growth of algae.
Watering: I keep mine on the dry side, even when they are spiking, adding only a 1/2 cup of water maybe weekly or as needed.
After leaves expand and the flower stalk has died back, I water about a cup at a time, and maybe the second watering, a 1/2 strength water soluble fertilizer (I like the “Max-Sea” product line a lot).
Do keep the bulb on the dry side as that will force it to put out new roots to search for moisture.
Continue growing the bulbs indoors in as much light as you can provide, and plan on getting them out in the garden once temperatures have stabilized.
I am thinking it may take a couple of years for the bulb to fully recharge itself, as the forcing procedure taxes the energy of the bulb.
I hope you find my comments helpful in your situation, I am looking forward to continuing the growth of my waxed Amaryllis also!
Regards,
David R. Clark, CNLP
Susan McKee,
You say you’re moving 50 yr. old bulbs. Are they Amaryllis? If so, it’s great that you’ve kept them thriving! Best of luck with moving your bulbs…
🐝🌺🐞
Susan, I’m glad this article helped you. If you need specific advice for your area, contact the Texas extension service in your area.
I have to move a bunch of 50-year old bulbs ( they have been moved around before) and intended to give some away in pots. We live in Houston so they overwinter in the ground. The advice above is very helpful. They have already started sprouting leaves, so I guess we will be very careful.
I bought a bunch of Touch of Wax Amaryllis bulbs on clearance and decided to cut the wax off with hopes it would allow the bulb to grow longer (years). The wax came off nicely but the bottoms of the bulbs were going mouldy and brown so without thinking I cut off the mould, plunked them in some pots and gave them some water thinking they would be fine. I feel I’ve made more than a few mistakes now because the end-tips of the low-growing buds and leaves are starting to turn brown, a minuscule amount, but still showing signs of distress. They aren’t growing as fast as my other 2 elder Amaryllis’. Should I have maybe soaked the bulb bottoms after cutting the mould off of them? Can I still do that? It has been about a week. Do I cut off the bulbs that had already started to grow before I cut the wax and mould off? Also, The tops of the pots had saprophytic fungus which I scooped out. I haven’t watered them since the first initial watering when planted so the top 1.5ish inches of soil is dry. I am looking for help on what to do with these beauties to help them live full, happy lives. Having them bloom isn’t as meaningful to me as having them healthy. 🙂 Thanking you for all suggestions.
Sarah B.,
Those shoots you see by the roots of the bulb are new baby bulbs that are beginning to form. Just plant your Amaryllis bulb as usual when you begin to see leaf or bud growth. Eventually over time those small shoots will become small bulbs and can be removed and planted on there own. Best of luck with your new flowering bulb!
Brett
Hi there,
I received an ‘apple blossom’ amaryllis as a gift recently. I’m unsure how to plant the bulb as there are new ‘shoots/sprouts’ coming out of the roots, as opposed to on the opposite side that would normally be above soil when planted– seems odd to me. Should I attempt planting root-side down anyways?
Hello Marcelle!
I ran across an interesting article that recommends we keep our amaryllis growing without the usual dry/cool/rest period we have been recommended to do!
It sounds like your bulbs are responding normally to your growing procedure.
The article also recommends to start the bulbs in a 6″ pot, then moving up to an 8″ pot through to 12″ container!
Your “problem” of the massive root system may be exactly what they require! I am contemplating this similar procedure on one of my bulbs.
I know that Connie Stofko also grows her “Appleblossom” bulbs in very large pots with great success!
Interesting to read all the comments on this article!
Regards,
David Clark, CNLP
Hello Helen!
There are a few reasons why your bulb may only be producing leaves. Depending on where your bulb was grown – Amsterdam or South Africa – it may be normal for leaves to appear first, most usually with the African bulbs. When watering the bulb, I flood the pot with water upon first planting and then no water until there is good growth emerging from the neck of the bulb. Thereafter, I only give 1/2 cup of water per bulb in a 6″ pot through the bloom sequence, keeping it on the dry side.
Once blooming is finished and leaves have expanded, only then do I supply more water and fertilizer to the pot until it drains from the bottom of the pot.
It could be that your bulb was exposed to either too high, or too low temperatures during shipping and storage at the retail outlet- both conditions will compromise flower stalk development.
It could also be that the bulb is young and did not achieve the necessary size to produce flowers.
It could also be that the bulb became severely dehydrated at the retail level…
As Brett recommended, continue to grow the bulb and once settled weather arrives in late spring, move the plant outdoors in full sun and grow it for the summer season. You could try adding an inch or so of compost or worm castings to the soil surface to increase the nutrition of the potting mix.
Best wishes for continued success!
Regards,
David Clark, CNLP
If the tips in this article don’t help, try this article.
Don’t give up on your Amaryllis. Keep it and keep tending it. It will continue to grow and will produce flower stalks for you when it becomes healthier and more settled. I’ve spoken to some individuals who have bulbs that are approaching 30 yrs. old. They become more astounding with age and size. Also, read back thru the comments here, there’s much info. to be gleaned. Good luck and God bless!
I bought an amaryllis bulb that only produced leaves, no flowers. What should I do with it?
Ruth, I would be careful of the extreme heat and sun in your Utah yard. And your bulbs won’t bloom properly if given too much water and may rot. You could grow your Amaryllis bulbs indoor. They like a bright window. A little sun is ok but not during blooming so your blooms will last longer. Be sure to turn your pot frequently so their fast growth doesn’t lean toward the light! Also, the suggestion to check with your local extension service for more info. can be helpful. Good luck growing!
Ruth, you should contact the extension service in your state. They will be able to give you advice for your weather conditions. I hope that helps!
I recently received a 3 pack of planted, large bulb red amyrillis which are starting to bloom now. I would like to put them all together in one large pot at some point. Here in very southern Ut it gets very hot (over105-110). And there is very little shade in my west facing yard. I could place the bulb pot in another big planter with irrigation. Is this too hot, too much water. Would really like to keep these bulbs going. Thank yiu.
Sounds cool! My current oldest bulb is probably 5-6 yrs. now. Are you aware of the little “Fairy” or “Rain Lilies”? They’re mini-bulb ‘cousins’ of Amaryllis that have a single flower at a time, usually pink but are available in white and other colors. I have a couple dozen. I plant 6-12 in a clay pot together depending on the size of the pot. Happy gardening! ☺️🌱
My largest (and oldest – 30 yrs plus) ) is bright red, and it’s offshoots are catching up size-wise. Then a (about 8-10 yrs old) white one with a double type flower which is becoming very large but seems a different bulb shape – more tight and round. It stayed the same size and perhaps even diminished its first two years before it started getting bigger. I also have a previously failing peach one I adopted from a neighbor which seems to be recovering. It had only one floppy leaf at first, but now has six. It may help that I don’t cut off all their leaves and “rest” them. Not sure. I leave their schedule to them. I have noticed their longest leaves grow during summer. Almost 4 feet long for the red one. Most turn yellow and limp sometime before blooming and I cut them off as they do. They spend the winter indoors in a window in clay pots. By the time I put them in the vegetable bed in summer, any of their remaining oldest leaves are floppy and a little ragged and they have shorter new ones.
Marcelle,
Are your Amaryllis all the standard red or do you have other colors?
I have a couple that have double red blooms and a lovely scent! Then I have several standard red and a beautiful red/white combo. There are so many other colors/designs available now it’s addictive! Wish I could have one of every kind, LoL! Best wishes with your bulbs!
Wow! You get that many flower stalks?!? Sounds like they’re very healthy!!
I think if you trim the roots when potting them the worst that might happen is you may lose a bloom period while the bulbs become resettled. I would take the risk if they were mine.
Thank you. I have never rested them, mostly from inability to keep on a schedule with them and am afraid of forgetting them too long. They usually bloom sometime between Jan and Feb, depending I guess whenever I get them out of the vegetable bed and potted. I have only ever cut off the yellow or damaged leaves as they happen. They will send up 4-5 bloom stalks which I cut off either as a cut flower or when they are finished. Usually they will send up a couple more bloom stalks a month or two after the first blooming. My problem is that the roots have become so massive they require very large pots
Thank you. I have never rested them, mostly from inability to keep on a schedule with them and am afraid of forgetting them too long. They usually bloom sometime between Jan and Feb, depending I guess whenever I get them out of the vegetable bed and potted. I have only ever cut off the yellow or damaged leaves as they happen. They will send up 4-5 bloom stalks which I cut off either as a cut flower or when they are finished. Usually they will send up a couple more bloom stalks a month or two after the first blooming.
Marcelle, I’m not 100% sure as I live in Maine which is colder and I rest my Amaryllis bulbs during the Winter. But, I believe you can still trim the roots even though they’re not dried out. Maybe you could try one and see how it does…?
I’m sorry I don’t have a scientific answer but hope my opinion is helpful in some way. Wishing you good luck with your bulbs!
Thank you, I dont have a timing vs weather question as I let them bloom whenever they will. I am wondering about their massive root systems when I take them out of the outdoor vegetable beds to put them in pots for the winter. The roots are not dried out and are very healthy. Can I still trim the roots?
Hi Marcelle, your weather in Ohio may be different than ours here in Western New York. Check with your extension service there to see what you should do. I hope that helps.
I have had an amaryllis for 30 years. It is the size of a large cantaloupe with enormous roots. I have removed huge offsets a few times that carry on alone. I live in Ohio and plant them in the vegetable bed over the summer. But I have a repotting question. Their root systems are massive and require huge pots. The roots are not dried out. Should I trim them? I have never rested these bulbs, i only trim leaves off as they die or break. When I repot them, i put them in a window as house plants. They bloom around January to February. I am worried about stuffing these massive root systems in their pots.
Joyce, contact the extension service in your area for local advice. I hope that helps.
How many bulbs should I plant in an 8″ pot? Also, what time of year do I divide them in So. Florida?
Thank you.
Joy Stallings
Thank you for the tips. I have already had quite bulbs, so I’ll try to do what you say: I’ll make them rest. It’s a satisfaction to be able to makr them bloom by ourself.
Annie, if you can give the bulbs six weeks or more of rest in a dry area that remains 50-55° F. they should happily grow and bloom again for you.
If the dormancy period is impossible for you, you can also purchase an Amaryllis bulb and grow it and enjoy the blooms. Then just discard the bulb and purchase a new bulb next time.
I live in a tropical country so I think it’s difficult to do dormant. I wish I could, cz the flower is so beautiful
Thank you both for your help Connie and Brett!
Thanks, Brett. I have used those fertilizer sticks later in the growing cycle.
When first starting your bulbs after their rest it’s helpful to not overwater or fertilize right away. Too much water or a dose of fertilizer early on in growth can encourage alot of leaf growth but discourage flowering. I choose to wait until after flowering before adding any fertilizer. I’m not saying my way is the only way but it’s what I have the best luck with.
Happy growing! ?
Judy, I had bulbs in the same pot for years. Several new bulbs had formed, and I decided I wanted to move some of the bulbs to a second pot. If you don’t have a compelling reason to move the new bulb, just leave it. The bulbs like to be root-bound. I don’t add new soil, but I do use fertilizer.
Judy,
If the new baby bulbs has any roots, I’d separate it from the mother bulb and continue growing it separately. If no roots, then the baby bulb hasn’t developed enough yet to be separated.
As far as fresh soil every year after dormancy, I would say while not necessary it is recommended! The fresh soil gives the rested bulb all it needs to grow and bloom it’s best.
I hope this has been helpful. Good luck with your Amaryllis. They are truly one of God’s most beautiful creations.
Thank you all for sharing your experiences with growing amaryllis. I have two questions.
This year I have an offset on a large bulb. Should I cut it off to allow the large bulb to grow or should I leave it be?
Is it necessary to put the bulbs in fresh soil every year after their dormancy period?
Brett, thanks for those tips!
Jewell Harrelson,
I have had many Amaryllis over the years but over the last 5 or so years I’ve been faithfully resting the same bulbs by 1) pulling them at the end of the growth cycle, 2) trimming the leaves and excess roots and 3) storing them in cardboard boxes full of shredded paper (sawdust should also work) in a cool, dry location until new green growth is visible. I then repot the bulbs for the new growth period.
The ideal storage temp. for the resting Amaryllis bulbs is 50°-55°. I don’t have a garage or cellar so I store mine in the back of my pantry on the cool floor. It’s the best I can do and seems to work okay. Be sure that your bulbs don’t get exposed to cold temps below 45° during their rest or you’ll get no blooms or lose the bulb altogether.
I recommend getting them outside for the summer after blooming and according to your individual area’s temps (55° and up). They love the sunshine and fresh air and grow much stronger and faster than indoors. I had bulbs this Summer with as many as 9 thick leaves.
Jewell, first, don’t leave the bare bulbs in your garage. They will freeze and die over the winter. Since you have already dug the bulbs up, I’m not sure what to tell you to do. My recommendation is to contact the Master Gardeners in your county. I hope that helps.
I have a huge amaryllis that had 8 huge bulbs which divided themselves. When I went to cut the dead leaves, I place the bulbs in the garage to dry out. They are very old from my mother in law. I would hate to lose them. Please tell me what to do.
Maybe when to replant them?
Brett, gardening is so much fun! Thanks again for sharing.
Connie,
You and all your readers are welcome! I love plants and flowers and it makes a good hobby since I am disabled. It’s so much fun to explore websites and catalogs for new and/or unusual varieties to nurture and show off.
Happy gardening!! ?
Brett, thanks so much for those great tips!
***I forgot to mention that the ideal storage temp. for the resting Amaryllis bulbs is 50°-55°. I don’t have a garage or cellar so I store mine in the back of my pantry on the cool floor. It’s the best I can do and seems to work okay. Be sure that your bulbs don’t get exposed to cold temps below 45° during their rest or you’ll get no blooms or lose the bulb altogether.
Happy gardening! ?
I have had many Amaryllis over the years but over the last 5 or so years I’ve been faithfully resting the same bulbs by 1) pulling them at the end of the growth cycle, 2) trimming the leaves and excess roots and 3) storing them in cardboard boxes full of shredded paper (sawdust should also work) in a cool, dry location until new green growth is visible. I then repot the bulbs for the new growth period.
I recommend getting them outside for the summer after blooming and according to your individual area’s temps. (55° and up) They love the sunshine and fresh air and grow much stronger and faster than indoors. I had bulbs this Summer with as many as 9 thick leaves. Four of my initial five bulbs have developed new baby bulbs the size of ping pong balls and another parent bulb has a small bud on it’s side that will probably produce another new bulb in the next year or two. These small bulbs will require several years of growth after being separated from the mother bulbs before they will produce a flower stalk with 1-3 flowers. And, in a few more years they’ll produce the familiar large stalks with 3-4 flowers. I’m still waiting for my first bulb that produces two flower stalks. Maybe next spring as a couple of my bulbs are as large as my fist now!
I absolutely love and highly recommend growing Amaryllis! Once you learn they’re cyclic needs, it’s easy to produce jaw-dropping blooms. Your friends and neighbors will be amazed!
Hello Lorraine!
Thank you for your kind words- I do hope you purchase an amaryllis plant. They are so very beautiful and are available in a wide array of color choices and flower forms.
Kind regards,
David Clark
Thank you for educating us. I do not have this flower bulb BUT I intend
to purchase.
WONDERFUL, informative information, Mr Dave Clark!
Linda, I think I would advise you to also contact Master Gardeners. Usually amaryllis are easy to care for. If the Master Gardeners say this is some kind of a trend, please let me know!
My 3 year old amaryllis bulbs bloomed this year as always but a few days after the bloom is completely open the flower breaks off the stem. This has happened in all three plants which are planted in the same container. Any suggestions?
Patricia, I think this is a good question to ask the Master Gardeners in your county. They will be able to give you good information. You could email them photos of what you are seeing on your plants. I hope that helps.
I have a question? The Amaryllis bulbs that I have purchased on line (this year & last year) all come with the RED VIRUS …when I asked why this was happening, the nursery said there was nothing to worry about. Is that a true statement? Everything that I have read, said to get rid of any bulbs with RED VIRUS.
Great!
Thanks. I did more internet searches and I’ll be fine. I can leave them for awhile in the basement and then pot them later in the year.
Rollin, I’m not sure how to advise you since you live in Tennessee. I would suggest you contact the University of Tennessee Extension program. I hope that helps. Good luck!
I live in Memphis. I’ve had my amaryllis outside in pots all summer. . In the past, I have left the bulbs in the pots, put them in the basement, didn’t water them all winter and then put them out again in the spring, and I’ve always had great results.
Today I did what I recently read in an article….I’m hoping I did not make a mistake. The flowers have been outside all spring and summer, and it’s now Dec. 3, 2017. (no frost yet). The pots had dried out, so I pulled the bulbs out of their root-bound pots, removed the soil, then cut the roots off about 3/4 inches from the bulb. I’ve got them drying out a little before I store them. The article said to put the bulbs in the crisper of the fridge for at least 6 weeks.
What should I do now? Should I leave the bulbs in the fridge until spring and then replant them, or plant them in dry soil in a pot and leave them in a dark basement? Thanks for you help! I have about 12 amaryllis that I’ve grown from two.
David, I’ve had several of mine for five years or more. It’s nice to think they could be family heirlooms! Thanks again for your great advice.
Hi Connie! Thank you for the interview and for this very nice article. I hope the tips enable folks to grow their amaryllis year after year. In their native lands, these bulbs can live up to 50 years!
Happy gardening!
Linda, I hope your amaryllis blooms, too. It’s like a little bit of sunshine during the winter.
People just throw out their amaryllis after it blooms? Say it isn’t so!
Many good points and suggestions. They are a nice plant and so many just dispose of them after bloom.
Thank you for the information. This winter there has been so little sunlight. I hope my amaryllis blooms.